A fabric tablecloth is a perfect DIY project for your craft table, dinning table, or patio table. It has elastic hems, like a fitted sheet, that allows it to fit snugly on your table. Leave on your table all year round for a washable table cover or make a few different ones for every season!
scissors, iron, safety pin, and sewing machine
I used this wonderful sewing comic fabric that is a favorite around here!
First measure your table. Add two inches to the measurements on all sides.
example: table size is 33″x40″ so cut a 37″x44″ rectangle from your fabric.
Fold over your edges a half inch and iron down. Then fold another half inch again so all raw edges are encased. Then stitched the hems down.
Wrap your elastic around the table to measure how much you need. Make sure to pull the elastic tight so the tablecloth will fit snuggle around the table.
Then using a safety pin in the edge of your elastic, feed elastic through the casing you created in the tablecloth. Feed it all the way through and then sew the ends together using a zig zag stitch on your machine.
I’ve always wanted to make a cute little Kimono cover-up! It just seemed like the perfect thing to wear around the house or even over a tank top out and about. I have been inspired by the simplicity of the basic Kimono pattern lately and I think after this project I am going to make a whole bunch in different fabrics and different styles. After all who wouldn’t love a slinky little kimono robe to wear around the house?
Here’s what you need:
2 yards of a 60″ fabric
Pattern paper if you’d like to make a pattern
I used this fabulous high quality floral poly chiffon but I had a really hard time choosing from all the awesome fabrics we have here. I think for my next one I’m going to use a rayon challis. Just a little more weight in the fabric would make it a little more flattering on my boxy body. Also if you are new to sewing I recommend not using such a silky fabric. It really added a lot of extra time and stress to my project even though I love the way it came out.
Step 1: The diagram
Determine the width you want your kimono to be. I decided to measure my bust (the largest measurement on my body) and add 15″. This will be the width of your kimono.
Determine how much of an opening you need for your sleeve. Measure around your bicep and add about 10″ to make it nice and full. You can play with this number to work best for your proportions.
Determine the length you want for your sleeve. Mine measures about 11″. I know it looks longer because of the way the garment falls so keep that in mind when choosing your length.
Determine the length of the kimono. Mine is 25″ long.
Take your fabric and fold it selvage to selvage sot that the longer measurement is getting cut in half. For example my pieces was 60″ by 72″ and after folding it the fabric measures 60″ by 36″. This means your blouse will be no more than 36″ long.
Measure out both sides from the center bottom to get your kimono width.
Measure down from the top the opening for the sleeve. Here you will measure down only half of your sleeve measurement.
Measure out your sleeve length.
Step 2: Cut it out
Yay you’re ready to cut your fabric out! You can make a draft on paper of your diagram or just do what I did and use your fabric as the draft.
Once you get your shape cut out you will cut up the center so you have an opening and create a little curve neckline for the back. Below is how I cut mine.
If you are using a delicate fabric like mine you may need a little help cutting straight lines on the grain. Take a pin and carefully pull on a strand of the fabric. By pulling a thread you will have a line created in the pattern that you can follow with your scissors.
Now you’re ready to sew. Simply turn your garment right sides to together and sew all the seams (there’s only two!!)
Another (not so) Quick Tip
Again using delicate fabric can be a pain but the possibility of an awesome project is great if you have a few good know how’s up your sleeve. When you are sewing your garment you should be sewing in the direction gravity is pulling when you are wearing it. This means for the Kimono you can’t sew the sleeves and armhole in on fail swoop. You have to start in the armpit and sew down to the hem and start again in the armpit and sew down the sleeves. Refer to the picture below. Again this is only necessary when using delicate fabrics that you need to fall nicely on your body.
Step 3: Finishing your Kimono
I finished all my seams on my garment by going back with my rolled hem foot and rolling them up. If you are a regular follower of our blog you know that we are OBSESSED with the rolled hem foot for so many reasons and this is just another great use for it.
Now I cut a 5.5″ inch strip from my leftover fabric (I had to piece it a little) to use as a binding for the neckline and opening. Fold it in half lengthwise and baste it.
Quick shameless plug: You’ll notice on the above right picture that I am using a chunky looking foot. This is the Acufeed foot Janome offers for their Horizon Machine. This is a really great tool that came in great handy for this project. It is really similar to a walking foot but is so much better because you can use it with so many other feet. Lie a quarter inch foot, stitch in the ditch foot, and more! Check it out!
With right sides together pin and sew your binding around your kimono opening and neckline. You could also use this technique to finish the hem on your sleeves if you’d like.
I used my rolled hem foot to finish off the rest of my garment.
And there you go! You have a wonderful little Kimono cover. I think I am ready to make a nice long one for a robe next. What do you think?
I’ll get some photos of me in it here soon. I was having a bad camera day, I’m sure you know how that is
I went shopping last week with my sister and all we saw at the mall were lace dresses, lace shirts, lace skirts and lace scarves. My sister even bought a lace dress to wear to a friends wedding. I came home inspired to make something out of lace for myself. We just got in so many new laces at the store and lace is obviously in fashion right now, so I thought what a perfect time to bust out a lace skirt tutorial.
This stretch lace pencil skirt is sooo easy to make that I finished mine in under an hour. We will not be using a pattern, all you need is your favorite pencil shaped skirt, which we will trace for a skirt pattern. You will not need any zippers or elastic either! How awesome is that?!
-favorite pencil skirt
-1/2 yard stretch lace
Step # 1: Pick out your fabric.
You could either match the color of your lace to the jersey lining or you could go for a contrasting color like I did. These were the two lace fabrics that I was debating between. After a couple co-workers opinions and much debating I finally decided to go with the navy interlock for the lining and the turquoise stretch lace for the outside of the skirt.
Step #2: Trace your pencil skirt
Lay your favorite pencil skirt down on your fabric in the direction you would like it to go and trace around the skirt with chalk 5/8″ around the outline of the skirt. The reason we are chalking it at 5/8″ beyond your skirt is for your seam allowance. I loved how the selvedge edge looked on the lace and wanted to make that the bottom of my skirt. I thought it would look great and it would be less work because now I do not have to sew the hem. Yea!
Step #3: Cut out the Fabric
As you can see I am cutting through two layers of fabric. (for the skirt front and skirt back) This will save you some time cutting two layers at once. Repeat for the lace fabric too.
Step #4: Pinning the Fabric
Pin the front and back of skirt panels with right sides facing each other up the side seams. Pin lace to lace and jersey to jersey as if you are making two separate skirts.
Step #5: Sewing the side seams
Stitch each side seam along where you pinned, sewing each skirt sides separately right sides facing in. Remember to sew with a zigzag stitch when sewing with stretchy fabric so your thread will not break when you put the garment on.
Step #6: Putting it together.
Turn sewn skirt to the right side facing out. Then insert lining (face out) into the lace skirt (face out) and pin along the waist band matching the lining to the lace. Then sew a zig-zag stitch around the the waist joining the two layers together.
Step #7: Cutting out and inserting the skirt facing.
Cut two 5″ Strips of fabric from your leftover lining fabric and chalk mark the waist line on each side. Then match front and back facing right side together and pin down the sides. Next zig-zag stitch along chalk marks on each side of facing. Pin the facing right side of facing to the lace on the outer edge of waist band and stitch all the way around the waste attaching the facing to the skirt with a zig-zag stitch.
After you stitch the facing to the skirt you will then zig-zag stitch the leftover seam allowance down to the facing so it will lay nicely inside the skirt. The pics below give you a visual of what this will look like.
Step 7: Wear your new skirt!