Monthly Archives: September 2012

Hello All! Julia here, and I’m going to tell you all about my experience with the Miz Mozelle sew-along!

First of all, puff sleeves and a peter pan collar on an easy to wear dress? Yes please! Like everyone else I was excited to join the sew along for the aesthetics, but as it turns out this pattern is not only cute, it’s quick and fun to make as well!

I first made a copy of the pattern onto muslin. I don’t always trace my patterns, but if I think that I’m going to make the pattern again I’ll take the time to do it. I used muslin because I had extra hanging around. Then I chose my fabric, a Tula Pink print from her nightshade collection, and a lace-edged bias tape for the trim. I liked the scale of the prints and a spooky motif.

Since the largest measurements listed were close to my actual measurements, and I was using a quilting cotton I decided to make the bodice and skirt a little more a-lined and less tapered. I omitted the waist tie to accommodate my ample collection of belts.

Since I have shorter legs compared to my torso, I also found it necessary to shorten the skirt length by about 3 inches. I might even shorten it by another inch and a half so that the proportions are better.

Overall I only had minor alterations to make on the first go, and boy, did this dress sew up quickly! It only took about an hour and a half once I had cut it out and could focus. I love the results and am excited to wear it year-round. In fact, I liked the Miz Mozelle so much, I made it again!

The second time around I used a burgundy stretch velvet, and trimmed it with an organic cotton lace instead of the peter pan collar. I also left out the key hole and made a v-neck neckline: both easy alterations! I just cut straight from the fold up to the shoulder seam instead of cutting out the key hole and cutting a curve to the shoulder seam. I didn’t taper the bodice this time either, I left it as-is.

I’m so excited about this pattern! I know that I’m going to make it several more times. It looks good with and without tights making it versatile through the seasons, and it’s so easy to throw on in the morning. What’s not to love?

I hope that this inspired you to make your own, I know you won’t regret it!

 


Here at Harts it’s no secret that we adore Colette, we also love free patterns! Today’s tutorial provides the best of both worlds! I’m going to show you step by step how to make her Madeleine Mini Bloomers. The pattern is a free downloadable pdf file, all you have to do is download it and print it out. These bloomers are super cute, easy to make and they only require one yard of fabric!

First off you will gather up your supplies. You will need: your pattern, one yard of fabric (I chose the super cute pink narwhals from the ‘Out to Sea‘ collection by Sarah Jane), 2 1/2 yards of ribbon (I’m using a 3/8″ Azalea Petersham Rayon Grosgrain), 2 1/2 yards of 1/4″ elastic, thread, pins, and scissors or rotary cutter.

After printing the pattern out I assembled it using clear packing tape on all the seams. After all the pages were taped together I cut out my size. Ive made this pattern a few times now and I have found that the packing tape has held up quite well.

Pin your pattern pieces according to the chart in the pdf, then cut them out. I like to use a rotary cutter to cut my pieces out, it makes the cutting process move quickly and smoothly.

With the right sides of your fabric together stitch the front (A) pieces together at the center curve. You will then do the same with the back  (b) pieces.

 

After sewing the center curves, finish your edges and press open. I don’t have a serger so I just use pinking shears on my raw edges.

Next we’ll sew the crotch seam. With right sides together stitch front side (A) to back side (B) at the crotch. Finish your seam and then press to the front.

Next are the side seams! With right sides together stitch front side (A) to back side (B) at both side seams. Finish the edges and then press your seams open.

Time to make the waist band! I love the waistband on these bloomers, the multiple elastic casings make is super comfortable! First you will finish the raw top edge, since I don’t have a serger I like to tuck my raw edge under for a cleaner look. Then fold the top over 2″ press it and pin it in place.

The waistband is formed by four rows of stitching. The elastic will be inserted into the second and forth casing while the other two are left empty. By doing so you will create a waistband that is both super comfy and totally adorable!

The top row of stitching is 3/8″ from the edge, each consecutive casing will be 3/8″ apart, don’t forget to leave a gap in the stitching so that you can insert your elastic.

Cut two lengths of 1/4″ elastic that fit snugly around your lower waist, then feed them into the second and forth casing. I used a safety pin to feed my elastic more easily.

After you have finished inserting your elastic you can sew the ends together and close the casing. Yay! your waistband is all done!

Now it’s time to sew up the leg openings! First you will stitch two  3/8″ button holes on to the front of each leg opening where they are marked on the pattern front (A). finish your raw edges and fold over 1 1/2″ of the leg opening hem. Press and pin in place.

Next stitch two rows to form a 3/8″ casing for your ribbon, this casing will align with the buttonholes.

On the right side, bring the buttonholes together to form a 1/2″ pleats, the buttonholes should lay right on the edge. Stitch the pleats in place by stitching over the stitches in the casing. Next you will cut two lengths of ribbon and feed it through the newly formed casings. Pull the ribbons and tie in to bows!

All finished and totally adorable!

I hope everyone tries this pattern, these bloomers are great for wearing under skirts or lounging around the house! Please share pictures of your completed bloomers with us, we’d love to see them!

Happy sewing!!

Alexis

Alexis Blog

 

 

 

 

 

 


Who else is totally excited about sewing this dress? When I heard that the Miz Mozelle pattern would be used for our next sew-along I was practically giddy with excitement! I’ve had my eye on this dress for a long time and this is the perfect excuse to get off my fanny and sew it.

Before I cut my pattern out, I traced it onto some pattern paper. I like to trace my patterns rather than cutting them out directly because I am then able to save all the pattern sizes; just in case I need to make a smaller/large size sometime later. Also, most pattern tracing paper is more durable and will last longer than the tissue-like paper that patterns are printed on.

All my supplies!

After gathering up all my supplies I decided to first make a muslin. Making a muslin isn’t a required step but I always find that it is a good idea when trying out a new pattern for the first time. Making a muslin first will insure the fit of your garment and allows you to make any adjustments in the pattern before you cut into your fabric.

Time to cut!

When cutting out the pattern pieces, I like to use a rotary cutter. It makes things move along quick and easily, which is great for me because cutting out the pieces is always my least favorite part of sewing ;).

This dress has a pretty pain-free construction and the instructions are an absolute dream. Every step is very well illustrated and easy to follow, this is my first time using a Jamie Christina pattern and I am loving it!

Bias tape on the key hole!

Sewing the bias tape

The step that was the most challenging for me was the bias tape around the keyhole, but because of the excellent instructions I was able to make it come together with no problems. Just make sure to use lots of pins and notch the curves and you will be just fine.

Gathering stitches

I just finished the gathering on the sleeves and attaching them to the bodice! All I have left to do is attach the collar, sew the skirt and make the sash! I’ve very happy about how the dress it turning out and I’m already thinking about what fabric I want to use for my next Miz Mozelle. I can’t wait to see all the different dresses that everyone comes up with!


The second part of the Color Block Shirt Tutorial will teach you how to adjust your shirt, put on the bias binding around the neck, make and attach the sleeves and hem the bottom!

After you have sewn up the sides and shoulder seams, it’s a good time to adjust the fit. I put my shirt on wrong side out and pinned the sides in a little under the armpit. I also measured the armhole opening and wanted it a little bigger, so I pinned my cutting line as shown.

 

Now you can cut your bias binding out of the sheer poly used for the top. Cutting on the bias means cutting at a 45 degree angle to the grain of the fabric

 

Here’s a picture of how to sew the bias strips together for a longer piece. I used a “sharp” needle in my machine for sewing the sheer so it didn’t snag the delicate fabric.
Next, pin the bias binding around the neckline.  Make sure you pin with the right sides together, meaning the right side of the shirt should be facing out, and the bias binding should be facing down toward it (so that the finished side of the bias seam is facing the shirt). I started sewing at one end, and left a 2″ tail so that when I ended, I could fold the tail over on top of the part I already sewed, and overlap the end on top of that for a nice clean finish.
Here I am sewing the binding on right sides together.
Now fold the binding over itself to the inside, to hide all the raw edges. Sew it down, stitching close to the inside edge as shown. I moved my needle over to the left position so I could stitch as close to the left side of the binding as possible.

 

Cut two identical sleeves as shown above. The right side is folded over, and tapers about 1/2″ to the left on both the top and bottom. Pin the left (open) edge and sew. No need to worry about finishing your seam allowance as it will get hidden in the sleeve.After sewing the side closed, fold the sleeve in half long ways, so the long sides and raw edges match up. You can baste these together if you wish, or just pin the two sides to the armhole sleeve (right sides together)- keeping the seam you previously sewed on the bottom of the armhole (at the side seam).Sew around the armhole and finish your seam allowance to secure your sleeve!I hemmed the bottom of the shirt using a twin needle (for a more decorative and stretchy! finish). You can serge the bottom edge too, then fold it in and sew it down! To use the twin needle, I folded the bottom in about 1/2″ then over another 3/4″ for a finished hem. Then I pinned and sewed close to the inside edge of the fold on the RIGHT SIDE of the shirt- otherwise, your two rows of stitching won’t be seen on the outside!

Your finished Color Block Shirt!


Color Block Shirt
Dana wearing her Color block top- it’s stretchy to allow for easy movement whether you’re at work, running errands, or just lounging around. The fit is loose and breezy and looks great on you no matter what!

 

The fabrics I chose for the first Color Block Shirt: a turquoise poly stretch chiffon for the top, an organic lace knit for the middle and a grey heathered knit made in Canada for the bottom. You can rearrange the color blocks depending on your style!
The pattern requires 1/2 yard of each fabric.
Drafting the pattern:
I cut out a square from pattern paper that was as long as my shoulder to hip, and as wide as I wanted around my waist (which was 22″ tall by 24″ wide). Then I measured from the tip of my shoulder (where I wanted to sleeve to sit), to under my armpit for the armhole measurement of 9″. I folded the paper in half vertically to find the center, and measured from the tip of one shoulder to the tip of the other. I made two marks equidistant from the center. Next I measured 2″ from the tip of my shoulder to the inner top neck line for the shoulder measurement. Then I measured vertically from the inner mark to where I wanted the neckline to fall which was 6 1/2″. This gave me the gentle slope for the neck. In order to make the shoulder fit well, I tapered 1″ down from top neckline to tip of shoulder. I drew all my lines, connecting the marks I had made previously!
* The armhole slope is a kind of half U shape
* The back neck curves the same as the front, but I made it 4 1/2 ” higher than the front.

 

Now cut out the pattern pieces and fabric!
The top pieces (colored shear) are 5″ from neckline top to where they stop, the middle section (lace knit) is 12″ high, and the bottom piece (heathered knit) is what is left over. Cut out all the pattern paper pieces and lay them on the fabric, so the fabric is doubled. This way you cut out the front and back at the same time! Note how I added my 1/2″ seam allowance all the way around as I cut out my fabric pieces.
Here is the top front pattern laid on top of the shear colored poly. I added the 1/2″ seam allowances all the way around when I cut out the fabric. You can add the seam allowances to the individual paper pattern pieces after you cut them out by re-tracing them onto another sheet of paper if you want before you lay them over the fabric.
Here is the middle piece laid on the fabric before I started cutting out the fabric.

 

Cutting out the back top. I weighted down my pattern pieces rather than pinning because the poly stretch is thin and tends to slide around!
Now let’s start putting your shirt together!
Start by pinning the front middle to front bottom, and do the same for back pieces. Since all the fabrics are stretchy, I used my serger, but you can also use your regular sewing machine- just set your stitch to “stretch straight”, or use a long straight stitch. Always use a ball point needle when sewing with knits!
*Don’t forget your seam allowances are 1/2″!
Sewing the middle to the bottom using a regular sewing machine, ball point needle and poly thread.
Serging the seam allowance
Pressing the seam allowance toward the top
Now pin the sides together, placing the “right” sides together. Serge or sew the sides.
Pinning the top at the shoulder seams
The serged shoulder seam

 

Now, with right sides together, pin and sew the top to the middle!
*When you pin the back top to back middle, there will be a curve where the neckline was cut out of the middle. Just pin the top to the middle at the lowest point of the curve in the center and trim off the excess middle fabric to form a straight line.That’s the end of Part One! Wednesday we’ll post the second part,  so you can learn how to apply the bias neck binding and sleeves to finish your own awesome Color Block Tee!