Color Block Shirt
Dana wearing her Color block top- it’s stretchy to allow for easy movement whether you’re at work, running errands, or just lounging around. The fit is loose and breezy and looks great on you no matter what!

 

The fabrics I chose for the first Color Block Shirt: a turquoise poly stretch chiffon for the top, an organic lace knit for the middle and a grey heathered knit made in Canada for the bottom. You can rearrange the color blocks depending on your style!
The pattern requires 1/2 yard of each fabric.
Drafting the pattern:
I cut out a square from pattern paper that was as long as my shoulder to hip, and as wide as I wanted around my waist (which was 22″ tall by 24″ wide). Then I measured from the tip of my shoulder (where I wanted to sleeve to sit), to under my armpit for the armhole measurement of 9″. I folded the paper in half vertically to find the center, and measured from the tip of one shoulder to the tip of the other. I made two marks equidistant from the center. Next I measured 2″ from the tip of my shoulder to the inner top neck line for the shoulder measurement. Then I measured vertically from the inner mark to where I wanted the neckline to fall which was 6 1/2″. This gave me the gentle slope for the neck. In order to make the shoulder fit well, I tapered 1″ down from top neckline to tip of shoulder. I drew all my lines, connecting the marks I had made previously!
* The armhole slope is a kind of half U shape
* The back neck curves the same as the front, but I made it 4 1/2 ” higher than the front.

 

Now cut out the pattern pieces and fabric!
The top pieces (colored shear) are 5″ from neckline top to where they stop, the middle section (lace knit) is 12″ high, and the bottom piece (heathered knit) is what is left over. Cut out all the pattern paper pieces and lay them on the fabric, so the fabric is doubled. This way you cut out the front and back at the same time! Note how I added my 1/2″ seam allowance all the way around as I cut out my fabric pieces.
Here is the top front pattern laid on top of the shear colored poly. I added the 1/2″ seam allowances all the way around when I cut out the fabric. You can add the seam allowances to the individual paper pattern pieces after you cut them out by re-tracing them onto another sheet of paper if you want before you lay them over the fabric.
Here is the middle piece laid on the fabric before I started cutting out the fabric.

 

Cutting out the back top. I weighted down my pattern pieces rather than pinning because the poly stretch is thin and tends to slide around!
Now let’s start putting your shirt together!
Start by pinning the front middle to front bottom, and do the same for back pieces. Since all the fabrics are stretchy, I used my serger, but you can also use your regular sewing machine- just set your stitch to “stretch straight”, or use a long straight stitch. Always use a ball point needle when sewing with knits!
*Don’t forget your seam allowances are 1/2″!
Sewing the middle to the bottom using a regular sewing machine, ball point needle and poly thread.
Serging the seam allowance
Pressing the seam allowance toward the top
Now pin the sides together, placing the “right” sides together. Serge or sew the sides.
Pinning the top at the shoulder seams
The serged shoulder seam

 

Now, with right sides together, pin and sew the top to the middle!
*When you pin the back top to back middle, there will be a curve where the neckline was cut out of the middle. Just pin the top to the middle at the lowest point of the curve in the center and trim off the excess middle fabric to form a straight line.That’s the end of Part One! Wednesday we’ll post the second part,  so you can learn how to apply the bias neck binding and sleeves to finish your own awesome Color Block Tee!