Hello and happy September! Natalie here with a quick and easy café curtain tutorial.
HI everyone! We have another project for you during Quilting Week as part of our Sew Your Hart Out month here at Hart’s Fabric.
To make two standard placemats, we started with one yard of Interweave Chambray in Brown. Our chambray fabrics are woven using two solid colors resulting in a deep dimension of color. We chose the brown because it is perfect for an Autumn table. You’ll also need cotton batting. We used the Quilter’s Dream cotton batting for this project; two pieces cut to 15″x19″. Also needed are Schmetz Topstich needles size 12 and Aurifil Varigated Thread in Marrakesh.
Hi everyone! We have a great tip for you for quilting week during our Sew Your Hart Out September
Making your own bias tape or binding gives you more options for your garment or project. Bias binding can be just the right touch for finishing seams in place of a lining in a coat, you can use it to finish a hem, and you can bind a quilt with it. Instead of packaged binding tape, why not make your own so that it coordinates perfectly? This tutorial will show you how to cut on the bias, and make continuous binding tape.
Here is a 44″ wide cotton, which is perfect for making bias binding. Take your fabric and open it up so that it’s no longer folded.
Hello! This week I was inspired to create a baby doll/peter pan collar on a the simple silhouette of a shift dress! I used the Laurel by Colette Patterns which is a fast and easy project. Let’s get started!
• 1 and 1/2 yards of Cotton and Steel Tangrams Indigo by Rashida Coleman-Hale*
• 2/3 yard of Cotton and Steel On the Grid in Mint by Rashida Coleman-Hale*
• 1/4 yard of woven fusible interfacing
• 7 inch zipper
• matching thread
• a skirt/pant hook and eye
*Note: you may need more fabric if you are making a longer skirt.
Note: I made things a little easier to calculate by using 1/2 inch seam allowances, rather than the standard 5/8 inch, so remember that as you are cutting and sewing.
First, measure your waist and write it down. Then, decide how long you want your skirt to be and write that down (the easiest way is to measure a skirt you already have and like the length of). Decide how wide you would like your bottom contrast band to be (mine is 3 inches wide), and how wide you would like your waistband to be (mine is 2 inches wide). Got all that? Now you’re ready to do some simple calculations!
For my skirt, my waist measurement was 33 inches + 1 inch seam allowance = 34 inches wide.
I wanted my skirt to be 26 inches long, total, with a 3 inch wide contrast band at the bottom.
So my main skirt piece was 26 inches – 3 inches + 1 inch= 24 inches long.
So, my main skirt pieces needed to be 34 inches wide by 24 inches long.
You will need 2 contrast band pieces. Here’s how to calculate them:
length: (same width as skirt pieces)
width: (desired width x 2) + (1 inch for seam allowances)
My contrast pieces were 34 inches long, just like the width of my skirt, and since I wanted them to be 3 inches wide, finished, they were (3 x 2) + 1 inch = 7 inches wide
You need 1 waistband piece. Here’s how to calculate it:
length = (your waist measurement) + (1 inch of ease) + (1 inch for overlap) + (1 inch for seam allowances)
width = (desired width of waistband x 2) + (1 inch for seam allowances)
Mine was: 33 inches + 1 inch + 1 inch + inch = 36 inches
I wanted my waistband to be 2 inches wide, so (2 x 2) + 1 = 5 inches
So, my waistband piece needed to be 36 inches long and 5 inches wide.
13. Right sides together, line up the sides of your skirt piece with the lines you drew on the waistband. The left-hand side of your skirt (with the zipper cover) should be 1/2 an inch from the waistband edge and the other, right-hand side should be 1 1/2 inches from the edge.
17. Fold waistband down on itself, right sides together, matching raw edges. Stitch along that 1/2 inch line. Clip top corner if necessary.