Hi Guys! Today we are going to continue sewing up our leggings. We will start by showing you the traditional method that can be use for both View A and View B. Then, we will take you step by step through the optional gusset that we spoke about in previous posts. If you have chosen to add a gusset, SKIP AHEAD! The assembly for the leggings with a gusset will be in a different order. Are you ready?? Lets do this!
Step 1: Pin the crotch on both sides as shown above, with right sides of the fabric together.
Step 2: Depending on how slippery your fabric is, you might want to go slow! Seam along each curve with a ¼” seam allowance using your preferred stitch method. We are using the triple stitch here and then finishing with an over edge stitch. You can also serge your seams to finish.
Step 3: Pin from ankle to ankle lining up your crotch seam. You’ll want to match your crotch seam as well as the notches. Then sew together using a ¼” seam allowance like you did before. If you are using slippery fabric, make sure your top and bottom layer of fabric are staying sandwiched together. The bottom can easily start slipping away from the top if you don’t keep a close eye on it. Finish your seams using your preferred method as you did before.
Step 4: With one continuous stitch, sew up the entire inseam of the pant. Make sure to finish your seam the same way you finished your front and back seams. This way the insides of your pants will match, and all the seams will be finished.
You are now looking at the finished legs on View A. If you are doing View B without a gusset, follow the same steps, yours will come together the same way!
HOT TIP! As you pin together your color blocked version, take a second to line up each place where the color blocking comes together and pin. This way you will have smooth continuous line of color blocking because your seams match!
Okay, we are now going to do the leg assembly WITH THE GUSSET! This may seem a little tricky at first, but it really makes sense once you do it. We will break it down as clear possible to make your gusset sewing go smoothly ;)
Step 1: Sew the inseams of the pant legs as shown above.
Step 2: Take both pieces of your gusset and stay stitch all round the edges at scant 1/4″. This might sound scary but you are just using a straight stitch to attach your two gusset pieces together. Don’t forget, you want wrong sides together here!
Note: We are using the gusset pattern piece that was provided on Hey June’s blog. Click here to visit her blog.
Step 3: Now it’s time to pin the gusset onto one of the pant legs, matching the notch to inseam.
Step 4: Sew the gusset onto the pant leg with right sides together. Leave a 1/4″ at the begging and end of your stitch to allow the gusset to sew in smoothly when we attach the other leg.
Make sure you pant leg with the gusset is wrong side out. You should have a leg that now resembles the picture below.
Step 5: Here’s where the magic happens! Take the other leg, and flip it right side out. Insert that leg into the side with the gusset and seams facing out, matching up the inseam.
Step 6: Start by pinning the gusset notch to the inseam of the inside leg, right sides together, and pin from the front to the back of the pant.
Once again…make sure to match up your color blocks, if applicable.
Step 7: Now that you are done pinning, sew the entire seam going from the front, through the gusset and the back. Your finished leggings will have both legs attached with the gusset in the middle. The inside of your leggings will look like the picture below.
Now turn it right side out, and this is what you will see!
You have now finished assembling your pant legs. Congrats! In our next post we will be showing you how to put together the waistband with the pocket. So fun! We love this step because it is so satisfying.
See you back here on Thursday!
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